Mumbai, if you need to talk...

A negative vote

I don't think our politicians get it.

A debate on NDTV last evening led to a showdown of sorts between Shobhaa De and Jayanti Natarajan, Spokesperson of the Congress. Shobhaa continued to express her thoughts on Mumbai. Jayanti was understandably defensive, the constant blame being placed at the politicians doorstep starting to get to her.

In the end, Shobhaa ended up looking like the mature person while Jayanti lost her temper, was furious at Shobhaa's inclusion of Sonia Gandhi in the list of uncaring politicians and finally degenerated into making statements like "If Shobhaa has better suggestions then why doesn't she run for elections and become the CM?"

This is the defence our politicians resort to when asked simple questions. Questions that are on everybody's lips : Why wasn't the intelligence received acted upon? (Jayanti's reply: Has Shobhaa heard about 'actionable intelligence'? Not everything can be acted upon.)

Not even an indication that the Taj will be a target for terrorism, or that the terrorists will come by sea? How much more specific do you want them to get? Shobhaa was right in asking whether the CM was waiting for a phone call from the terrorists informing him when and where they were going to strike!

The frustration we feel is naturally targeted at our netas. We meekly elect them every time, hopeful that this time they will be different. They don't deliver. And what do we do? Elect them again.

I don't have an answer to this, except to propose the concept of a negative vote, a vote that is not in favour of any candidate, yet is valid and taken into account.

Our Indian electoral system presently has no provision for indicating that the voter does not find any of the candidates suitable to represent him in Parliament. We are forced to vote for someone - no matter how incompetent.

If you don't clearly choose one candidate, your vote is invalid. That's millions of votes lost because we don't have enough options.

How many times have you walked out of a polling booth, angry and frustrated because even the Independents are thugs in waiting? But you have to make your presence felt, otherwise, someone else will cast a vote in your name.

A negative vote will solve that problem. If I don't feel that any of the candidates are worthy, I will make my stand clear. I will not be forced to vote for the 'lesser evil' as most of us tend to do. The vote will count. The majority vote will still count. If the constituency registers a majority negative vote, an alternative will have to be found - I don't know what. At least the same thugs will not come into power over and over and over again (or take turns).

The more I think of it, the better the idea sounds. Any takers? Perhaps I should start a campaign and get the CEC to listen.

Updates

Dina Mehta's blog has a link to a list of the dead and injured. Also included are helpline numbers which many of you may find useful.

Shobhaa De's comments on NDTV

Lots of people commented on my last post and several have asked for the link to Shobhaa De's comments on NDTV last night. For those of you who missed it, here's the link.

or watch the video below:

Shobhaa De speaks for all of us

For once, I agree wholeheartedly with the outspoken Shobhaa De. Her comments on NDTV tonight were spot on - an angry reflection of what all of us are feeling.

I left this comment on her blog:

Shobhaa,

Thank you for the statement you made tonight on NDTV. You echoed what so many of us feel - enough is enough. We're sick of dealing with inept politicians who show up only after the damage is done. Mumbai's 'resilience' (for want of a better word) is nothing but a fierce sense of denial, our belief that surely, someday, things will get better.

They're not going to. Time we realised that and did something about it.

A concerned Mumbaiwallah

Attacks on Mumbai

It's happened again.

It's 00.17 on 27 November as I write. CNN on Twitter tells me that the city is under seige again. A grenade apparently went off at CST and shooting was reported in Colaba. NDTV.com live tv shows that the Oberoi lobby is on fire and an 'encounter' is on at the Taj and Trident Hotel.

Trains on the central line have been stopped until further notice. 20 people have been reported dead at this time.

Maximum City

'Maximum City' by Suketu Mehta has been on my bedside table for some time now. I've looked forward to reading this acclaimed account of my city. I've made a few attempts to read it. Mehta is a wonderful writer. Every time I pick up the book I end up feeling depressed. I've gone back to it time and again, hoping that something in the pages will renew my affection for the city.

But it's gone. I can see it in my anger and irritation that the stories generate in me. I can feel it when my stomach churns at the thought of leaping into a packed, running train again. I feel myself recoil at the possibility of being groped, touched without my permission by passers-by, complete strangers who believe they have the liberty and access to my body.

Mehta talks about being an 'exile'. I heard that thought echo when we were at friends in England and one of them said that she didn't feel at home anywhere.

I don't feel at home in Mumbai. I don't think I ever did. That's a different statement from having a home there, though. The city is a place where my family lives and works. But that's the extent of my affection for it.

Every time I go back 'home', I echo Mehta's words. I feel as if I'm in a movie - surely, in the 21st century, things should be better?

Support Raj Thackeray (not my idea!)

Apparently, I'm not the only one who has Mr. T on my mind. An email forward received recently tells me that others are thinking about him, too. Not all of it is completely accurate or makes sense, but you get the sentiment.

Here's what it said:

All of us should support Raj Thackeray and take his initiative ahead by doing more...

1. We should teach our kids that if he is second in class, don't study harder... Just beat up the student coming first and throw him out of the school.
2. Parliament should have only Delhiites as it is located in Delhi.
3. Prime-minister, president and all other leaders should only be from Delhi.
4. No Hindi movie should be made in Bombay. Only Marathi.
5. At every state border, buses, trains, flights should be stopped and staff must be changed to local staff.
6. All Maharashtrians working abroad or in other states should be sent back as they are SNATCHING employment from Locals in that country.
7. Lord Shiv, Ganesha and Parvati should not be worshiped in Maharashtra as they belong to north (Himalayas).
8. Visits to Taj Mahal should be restricted to people from UP only.
9. Relief for farmers in Maharashtra should not come from centre because that is the money collected as Tax from whole of India, so why should it be given to some one in Maharashtra?
10. Let's support Kashmiri Militants because they are right to killing and injuring innocent people for benefit of their state and community.
11. Let's throw all MNCs out of Maharashtra, why should they earn from us? We will open our own Maharashtra Microsoft, MH Pepsi and MH Marutis of the world.
12. Let's stop using cell phones, emails, TV, foreign Movies and dramas. James Bond should speak Marathi .
13. We should be ready to die hungry or buy food at 10 times higher price but should not accept imports from other states.
14. We should not allow any industry to be set-up in Maharashtra because all machinery comes from outside.
15. We should STOP using local trains... Trains are not manufactured by Marathi manoos and Railway Minister is a Bihari.
16. Ensure that all our children are born, grow, live and die without ever stepping out of Maharashtra, then only they will become true Marathis.

How does one get this across to Mr. T? Perhaps this needs to be translated into Marathi and sent on horseback...

Yes, there is a God

and He doesn't work for the MNS.

So, the unthinkable happened. Raj Thackeray was arrested and sentenced to two weeks in jail (whether he stays there is questionable, though).

Now, if they could only arrest the rest of the MNS workers (and the SS and the BJP and the VHP while they're at it) or deport them somewhere (one of those islands made of plastic and other waste disposed in the in the middle of the ocean sounds good) with no way of getting back here, life would be good.

Mumbai, in the meantime, watch your back. Trouble's ahead.

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The Sensex rose 460 points today. The news says it's because of gains in IT and realty stocks. I think it's because of the arrest - it brings back some degree of hope in the law. If they keep him there (and manage to keep law & order in the state at the same time), the Sensex will go up a couple of thousand points - you'll see!)

A Walk through India's History

If you've never been to the Prince of Wales museum at Kalaghoda (now known as Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastusanghralaya), this is a good time to go. The magnificient building houses some amazing treasures, including artefacts from the Harappa civilisation, amazing stone and metal sculptures, a natural history section (full of stuffed birds, fish, animals and creepy-crawlies) and a good selection of art from the Ratan Tata Collection including a Veronese and several Constables.

Another reason to head to the museum is to see a special exhibition on the history of Indian music. Lots of information, rare equipment like phonographs, gramaphones, antique recordings including the voices of Nehru, Subash Chandra Bose and Gandhi and a karaoke booth if you want to test your bathroom singing.

Need to Know
Entry to the museum:
(for adult Indians) Rs. 15/- per person
(for foreigners) : Rs.300/- per person and includes audio guide

Audio guide for Indians : Rs. 150/- (well worth the price, according to Mr.R).

However, do allow yourself plenty of time to do justice to the exhibits. We spent about 3 1/2 hours.

How to get there: Trains to Churchgate or CST (VT). Then either walk, take a bus or taxi upto the museum - 5-10 minutes away

More information on the official website: http://www.bombaymuseum.org/

Please, Mr. Postman

It’s been two weeks since we posted a letter from Goa for Mumbai. We did the right things: stood in a long queue at the Head Post Office, didn’t roll our eyes when the counter staff disappeared grumbling about lunch timings, weighed the envelope and stuck a 20 rupees stamp.

On the same day, we posted two envelopes destined for England. Funnily enough, those have reached while we’re still waiting for the Mumbai envelope to turn up. What happened here? Did the envelope fall behind a dusty sorting table when you were not looking? Did the dog nibble on your bag during your tea break? Or did the rain wash out the envelope and the stamp making it impossible for you to forward it on?

Or perhaps the postman in the Mumbai post office is saving a delivery for a dry day. That’s not true, because post is being delivered every day (or whenever there’s some).

So where has my precious envelope gone? Next time, there’s only one recourse: either send mail by registered post or courier. Without a receipt, it’s impossible to follow-up. Without proof, our words have no value.

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Update: 7/8/08: The brown envelope finally arrived in Mumbai. Posted in Goa on 23 July, it was postmarked 26 July (took 3 days to get from the post box at the entrance to the counter in the Head Post Office?), and postmarked 6 Aug in Mumbai (took 10 days to reach Mumbai, or did the Borivali PO sit on it and then stamp it when they were ready to deliver?)

A very warm update

If you thought that semi-retirement involved late breakfasts, delicious lunches, siestas, shopping and dinner, you were right. That seems to be the schedule for the moment as we recuperate in Mumbai. We've taken July off while we get used to being back in India and let me tell you, it needs some adjusting.

Life in the UK changes the way you see things. Even after a few years out, it is hard to reconcile travelling by crowded public transport, walking on a mockery of footpaths (paved beautifully, but you need a stepladder to climb onto some of the new ones) and close your eyes to the filth and squalor on both sides of the road as you pass by.

The good news is that we are being fed, watered and taken care of. We're still waiting for the monsoons to hit us, but I guess we should be grateful (in some perverse way) for the lack of rain so we can walk around occasionally. The paucity of rain means a water shortage and it's back to bucket baths at scheduled times!

The writing, in the meantime, progresses. I'm technically on a break until August (when I start freelancing full-time), but I've just had an acceptance from a UK magazine for a reprint of an article. I also spotted a bridal mag on the stands here with my article in it - such a great feeling!

While we're having a holiday, we've been to see Mandira Bedi & Samir Soni perform in 'Anything but Love' (***/5) at Bandra's St.Andrews and saw Hancock (*** for the special effects) last night.

And oh yes, our shipment arrives sometime in August. It will be good to be reunited with our worldly possessions.

Fly Jet Airways

We flew in on Jet Airways – our choice of airline dictated by available fares rather than any other reasoning. My experiences with Jet in India haven't been extraordinary - they do their job, but nothing great (unlike Kingfisher which is the best I've flown by so far).

Boy, were we surprised! Flying Jet internationally was the best Heathrow-Mumbai experience we have had so far. The seats were comfortable, the food good and the online entertainment fabulous. The crew were fairly pleasant – camaraderie may be too much to expect. A little more leg room, more water during the flight and checks on the online entertainment screen status would have made the whole thing fabulous. Mr R’s screen froze in between a movie and restarted an hour or so later. We swapped seats to let him continue his film.

Let's see if the journey back matches the flight in.

Mumbai Darshan

Mr R and I had a Mumbai darshan on Monday. Eager to get to South Mumbai “where all the action happens”, we boarded a slow Borivali - Churchgate train. It took us about 45 minutes or so to get to Marine Lines, where Mr R was keen to trace a former violinist who played with him at the BCO. Not having much success, we went to BX Furtado, a landmark institution opposite Metro cinema. Mr R knew the owner and we had a chat with him. The violinist friend we were trying to trace has moved abroad now – so that trail has gone cold.

Princess Street hasn’t changed in years. The old buildings are still as decrepit as before. Winding staircases lead to wobbly, unsteady corridors lined with apartments. Look above street level though and you will see sheer architectural beauty hidden among gaudy hoardings and political banners. The Parsi Fire Temple stands proudly, its cornices and pediment reminiscent of another age.

From Princess Street, we took a walk along Mahapalika Marg. The new subway linking the complicated Metro crossroads is a delight – clean, quiet and safe. May it remain the same always. On Mahapalika Marg, long queues of applicants snaked into the BMC offices, possibly for a job exam.

My college - Xaviers - was still the same. Grey and white stone, tall palms obscuring the entrance, a cross proudly standing on the roof. The vendors outside had been cleared. Gone was the dosa-wallah and the famous sandwich maker in his blue uniform. Wonder what happened to them?

We then took a taxi to Fountain. Mr R was keen on going to Rhythm House to sample their collection of classical music. It's been many years since he’s made his way there, so I can only imagine his delight. Before shopping, we had lunch at Café Samovar, Jehangir Art Gallery’s iconic restaurant. The no-nonsense food hadn’t changed, only the prices had risen.

Three exhibitions were on in the gallery. It was interesting to see the number of people walking in and taking a look at the pictures. Unusually, these were not the arty types, just ordinary folk, some local, some outsiders all very keenly peering at the abstract acrylics, the tribal art, the blue cats and cows.

Rhythm House was busy. Lots of people in every aisle. Classical music, very surprisingly, was significantly cheaper here although the same labels and companies were represented. At the CD section, we met a charming young man who is currently working with the DNA newspaper. Mr R and he had a chat about music and he left with a stack of CDs, as did we. We’ll be back again.

Living in North Mumbai has distance as its biggest disadvantage. After a short stroll to Gateway (dusty with the ongoing refurbishment), we had to head back before the rush hour began.

The news so far

Mr.R and I are in India for a few days. It's hot here - temperatures hover around 32C, which isn't too bad, really. On Facebook, I'm informed that we missed the snow over the weekend. I'm happy and sad at the same time.

My Mumbai hasn’t changed a bit. Even the dug up roads and endless flyover constructions are familiar. There’s work going on everywhere – from old buildings being demolished and towers springing up in their place to shiny new malls frequented by everybody with a free moment to spare. The air conditioning and the prospect of walking through a shop without being hassled appeals.

From my bedroom, I can hear school boys play cricket in the heat. Cheers and calls waft through to the sixth floor. Auto rickshaws whiz past sleepy stray dogs. A clock goes tick tick somewhere.

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The papers are full of the usual news. Politicians causing havoc, cabinet reshuffles, allegations and the page three people on all other pages. Monday the 7th was No-Honking Day. Strangely enough, the media came across as rather negative about it. Surprisingly, it was the traffic police who were all enthusiastic about it. They were reported to have been forcibly putting stickers on cars, whether owners wanted them or not. The day was an expected non-starter with almost no change in decibel levels. For a country that has to deal with bad roads, bad driving habits and endless pedestrians in the roads, honking is a survival tactic. I can understand the reluctance of the drivers to go with the good intentions of the police. If you’ve lived in a quiet place, you know the difference noise can make to your life. Maybe the city needs to stay off the roads for a day. See what difference silence makes – would that change the way we drive?

Where's Sandra?

'Sandra from Bandra' is one of those sterotypical images that we are so fond of. Along with the Parsi Bawaji, the funny Sardarji or the Bengali 'roshogulla', Sandra represents the way the country looks at its minorities.

Where's Sandra? is a film about a stereotypical figure of the Indian Catholic woman -Sandra from Bandra.

Paromita Vohra directed this short film. Here's what she says:

At the most literal level, this film is about the Christian women of Bombay who created a certain space for women in general. They were the earliest women in Bombay to enter the workforce, which was part of the reason for the unease around them and for the sexual stereotyping that they received.

But they also embodied a certain spirit - of fun, of pleasure and a certain chutzpah. This generation of women doesn't know that we owe something to them, for being out there first where we so easily are today.

I searched for a way to explore the stereotype of Christians more gently - through he aspects of fantasy that exist in the idea of the sexy, supposedly available but actually unattainable Christian woman. I've tried to stay away from dismantling stereotypes in the film, tending instead to create my own notion of this figure by taking my own and others' ideas of Sandra, and weaving in Bollywood imagery and interviews with women actually named Sandra living in Bandra.

Also, it seemed important to tell the history of this neighborhood not through the usual historio-cultural lens, not tell tales of buildings and the comings and goings of conquerors and settlers, but rather, to trace it through the lives of its women. And in speaking of these women and what lives and times they shaped, perhaps also understand something of the feminist/social history of the city of Bombay .

This is not the sort of history that is recorded often - it is an invisible, everyday history of women from a minority community.

At another level, I think (or hope, anyway) that women of my generation are less anxious about the feminist stories they can tell, about the ways in which they can tell them. In a time of so many stereotypes about feminism, more mischievous stories are needed and are being told with greater ease. And the way in which this story is told is an exercise of that sort.

Watch the film here: (18 minutes). I guarantee you'll like it.

FILM CREDITS
Producer: Celebrate Bandra Trust
Director: Paromita Vohra
Camera: Avijit Mukul Kishore
Editing: Jabeen Merchant/Sankalp Meshram
Sound: Anita Kushwaha
Cast: Tuhinaa Vohra, Sonali Verma, Rachel Lopez

Chuck them, India!

One sultry Mumbai afternoon in October, I happened to catch Chak de, India on cable tv. The movie had received rave reviews. My mum even went to the theatre to watch it (a rare occurrence, if you know my mum).

The film is about an ex-India hockey captain who is ostracised after losing a World Cup match to Pakistan (imagine that happening to a cricket player - nah!). Seven years of ignominy later, he resurfaces, offering to coach the Indian women's hockey team.

The movie is a wonderful depiction of the bureaucracy behind Indian sports, the attitudes of players and the hard-to-shake-off "state" mentality.

This film is to hockey what Lagaan was for cricket. The movie rocked the nation - patriotism, women's empowerment, challenging cricket - it's all there.

The acting, script, music and characters are all memorable. But for me, the film struck a chord for a totally different reason. One scene stood out above the rest and will be instrumental in giving this film a special place in my heart.

There's a scene where Kabir Khan (SRK) is leaving the team after the girls rebel. For a farewell lunch, he takes the other staff and the girls to McDonald's (not a good idea, but never mind). There, the girls from Mizoram are subjected to blatant "eve-teasing". The girls ignore the "teasers", but it continues until one girl has enough. She gets up and confronts the creeps, who shockingly, punch her. The scene turns violent as more boys join in, trying to salvage their dignity. Designed (me thinks) to show how team spirit develops, the tables turn (literally) when all the girls join in the fray and beat up the guys.

I was exhilarated. If you're a woman and you've seen the film you'll know what I mean. It was a dream come true! How many times have you been in a similar situation, dying to throw a knife at some creep, or push him under a bus, but are held back for whatever reason? How many times have you walked away, knowing that no other woman, forget about the men, will come to your aid if you protest?

Throughout the scene, I was silently egging the girls on - go on, break his bones! My fury surprised me. I remember turning to my mum, saying "If this film only succeeds in translating this to the street, the world would be a different place."

Being passive about our daily humiliation on the street only encourages the problem. Stand up to it, endure the stares from passers-by, but at least you can walk away with your head held high and the offender cowering.

Let your tears flow once you get home. Then, get up, and be prepared to do it all over again. Every day.

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Looks like I'm not the only one to love this scene :
Filmiholic (Favorite scene: how the girls handle eve-teasing at McDonalds)

Reefknot : ...they finally get the team spirit by beating the pulp out of stupid eveteasing boys at McDonalds (thats the spirit people)(if you have the experience of getting back at eve teasers or anybody else who has done something horrid to you..this is something you will love)

Blinkdreamz : I saw "Chak De India", good movie, and what the girls do when guys tease them...that's very good too! I'm a pacifist, but I liked what they did to guys because I felt that that can't be called violence...that's Chastisement

And the site that allowed me to vent my fury for the first time - the Blank Noise Project. Are you on their 'Unwanted' list? (see sidebar on their site, with photos)

Elbows, unused

It was an unusual trip to India.

I've not had the occasion to hit anybody or use my elbows even once on the street. That could mean either of two things : I'm not going out enough on the streets (travelling by car, shopping in the malls, not on the streets) or the men on the streets have changed.

Since the latter is not possible, the former must be true.

The changing face of Mumbai

One of the things that never changes about Mumbai is that everywhere you turn, you will see evidence of construction.

With the boom in Indian property, even far-flung suburbs have not been spared. In fact, the definition of 'suburb' itself has new dimensions. As the city expands further to the north, for some of us Gujarat is closer than South Mumbai.

On this trip, the frenzy was apparent. Every vacant space on the horizon had a crane or scaffolding. The marsh at Malad is now a thriving office complex. Mercifully, the road digging was at a minimum in October - perhaps the contracts for re-digging are still being processed. The completion of the link road (running parallel to SV Road) at Borivali means that one can now make the journey to Malad in under 20 minutes on a good day. The roads are wide and even (for now). Here's a warning, though. Stay away from the Malad (In Orbit stretch) during peak working hours and shopping hours (afternoon - late evening). It will take you an average of 20 minutes to cross one set of traffic signal. Maybe In Orbit should consider bussing people from nearby stations instead...

The Bandra-Worli sealink is still inching forward. What surprised me most was the complete disappearance of the hutments outside Mahim station. I had not believed this possible. Years of watching early morning demolitions outside the historic Reay Road station (on my way to work) had convinced me that this was just a stunt. Because the next morning, twenty-four hours later, the shanties were back, television and phone line intact.

Seeing the pavements outside Mahim station was wonderful. I feel sorry for the people who lived outside - but it's about time that taxpayers of the city got their money's worth. It must be a relief for residents not to have to deal with the stink, the sight of beggars and prostitutes at every turn.

Will this last? Let me know if you see any different.

More on Reay Road here.

Turn on the TV!

Channel Five is showing a programme on Mumbai's leopards right now. Watch it!

8 pm/ Five / 1 June